Before the trek actually began..

Wed Feb 18 (T-60!) - After a long search for someone to join me on this trek, I signed up alone with Himalayan Glacier (HGT) in Kathmandu, Nepal.  With a minimum group size (min 2 - max 10), you can pretty much select your dates and itinerary.  Otherwise, you go on their pre-planned dates with strangers.  I picked a date two weeks earlier than I had in mind.  Our group had total six men - five from the US, one from Australia.  I will leave San Francisco on April 16, 2009 for Delhi, and then on to Kathmandu to join this 19 day trek from April 19 to May 7.  I completed the online registration and paid 20% deposit with a credit card.

Now off to "getting ready"!  I was told that wih my usual exercise routine (daily 6-7 miles walk/hike including 50-75 story climb, plus 1 1/2 miles of swimming,) I was fit for the trek.  Otherwise, you are advised to walk 4-6 hours daily starting 3 months prior to the trek.

I had very little prior trekking experience - once to the top of Mount Diablo, 3800 ft.  Normally, people prepare themselves by climbing Half Dome in Yosemite, Mt Whitney, Mt Shasta, Mt Rainier, Mt Kilimanjaro, before embarking on EBC.  I just short cut the whole thing.

Sun April 19 (day 1) - My flight from Delhi to Kathmandu was initially delayed by the airline, and then by Customs (45 minutes each.)  It was over 100 degrees in Delhi that day, so until doors were closed, temperature inside the plane was even hotter.  I am sure we consumed all available drinking water on that plane.

During the take off, our old plane shuddered as it struggled to lift off.  I was afraid that it was going to split in to two parts, and the back part -where I was- will remain on the ground.  Thankfully, it did NOT.  But that was a nervous experience.  Not a good start, I thought.

Closer to Kathmandu, we could see some snow capped mountains in the distance, but nothing memorable.  After landing, however, the entire area was so hazy/smoggy that there was no hints of any mountains surrounding Kathmandu.  With its 7 million population and smoke spewing vehicles jamming the streets, Kathmandu has a huge pollution problem.  During our 3 days in Kathmandu, we never saw any mountains.  It was relatively cooler - 84 degrees - than Delhi, and the breeze was nice.

A van waited to bring us to the hotel.  Chet from Himalayan Glacier (HGT) came to meet me, after two others joined us - Charlie and Jimmy from Virginia who happened to be on the same flight, we proceeded to Hotel Shanker.  We reached around 6 PM. 

This old palace is now a five star hotel with all expected amenities.  There I met two more from our group - David from Melbourne, Australia and Brian from Atlanta.  The sixth person, Felton, also from Atlanta, would join the next day.  Six men with age range from 32 to 68.  All except the youngest two were married - none of the wives chose to join!  Since Felton wasn't with us, Welcome Dinner was postponed to the second night.

Chet took me to the heart of the city to show around.  Due to load shedding, there was no electricity outside.  Hotel Shanker had its own back up power, so we didn't need to worry there.  However, a flashlight would have been handy on my way back from the city.  I met up with the rest of the group in the bar and got to know each other.  So far, we had a pretty positive experience.  Hope that continues.

Mon April 20 (day 2) - Due time difference and jet lag, I woke up very early and went swimming at 6 a.m.  Although the pool water was cold, shower was really warm.  After a wonderful buffet breakfast at the Hotel, we got ready for the day.  Went sightseeing Kathmandu for 5-6 hours - visiting many many Shiva temples, Buddha Stupas, and other sites.  Very interesting mix of religious following - both Hindus and Buddhist attending some of the same sites.

The name "Kathmandu" is derived from Kashtha Mandap (literally, Wooden Hall - a covered meeting room made from wood of a single tree.)  There is a lot of history in this ancient city.  And of course the usual touristy stuff.  Wherever we went, hawkers were right behind us selling their souvenirs and things at exorbitant prices.  For the most part, they left me alone because I looked Indian/Nepali.

In the evening, we went to HGT office to meet our guide Devraj Giri, to get prepped for the trek, to finish paperwork and make payments to HGT.  After that, we went for our Welcome Dinner at a Nepali restaurant.  The food was great, but having to sit on the floor didn't go well with most of us.  Previous group had just returned from their EBC trek - two women who made it to EBC, and an older man who couldn't for health reasons.  They joined us for their farewell dinner.  We anxiously listened to their stories.  On one hand, we wanted to know; on the other, we didn't.  May be we were a bit apprehensive about what lay ahead for us.  I was disappointed to learn that the entire trek is on dirt, gravel, rock trails - no snow until EBC.  Oh well.

Tue April 21 (day 3) - We were all packed up and ready to go. Excited actually - with a lot of anticipation and apprehension.  We left the hotel at 6:30 am for 7:45 am flight.  The small airport waiting room was full with many other groups - all going to Lukla, about 80 miles away.  There were four groups ahead of us, but none of the earlier flights had left because it was foggy at Lukla.  Flights don't leave Kathmandu unless they get clearance from Lukla.  The same planes then turn around and bring returning trekkers back to Kathmandu.  If flights don't leave in the mornings, you have to wait another day.  It is always foggy in Lukla in the afternoons - too dangerous to fly in or out.  After waiting for 6 hours at the airport, it was clear that there were to be no flights to Lukla today.  We will try again tomorrow.  What if the same thing happens tomorrow?  Will we go at all?

The wait at the airport was made interesting by someone named Wolfgang from Austria - a hardy man around age 50 - whose hobby is climbing mountains all over the world.  This time, he was back to take a group for a tough climb to Cholo - at Namche Bazaar, he will take the left fork; we will go right.  He had lots of experiences to share.  I found his stories very captivating - and in some ways, comforting.  We ran into him a few times in the following days, and every time, he had new stories to share.  Reminded me of someone I knew!

HGT was prepared for such eventuality and arranged to bring us back to the city.  For tonight, they put us up in a different hotel (less posh than Hotel Shanker, but closer to the city action).  Then they took us for a nice lunch.  The rest of the afternoon was free time.  We went back to the hotel, relaxed for a while, and then some of us went out for a walk/shopping.  Just as we returned, clouds rolled in and it rained pretty heavily for a short time.  They said that it was good omen.  When it rains like that, the next day weather is clear at Lukla - let's see!

On hindsight, I felt that HGT should have scheduled to get us to Lukla on the very first day instead of sightseeing Kathmandu.  That way, if flights are cancelled due to bad weather, Kathmandu sightseeing would be Plan B.  The previous group lost 3 days waiting for Lukla weather to improve.  Then they had rush and finish the rest of the trek in only 13 days - cutting in to their acclimatization time.

P.S. Nepal time is 12 hours 45 minutes ahead of Pacific time, and 15 minutes ahead of India time.